Remote support checklist

I’m always happy to help you if you struggle with the controller configuration. I know that PID tuning can be overwhelming if you encounter it for the first time. Before I connect with you, I’d greatly appreciate it if you check some easier things yourself, so our session would be more efficient. I can provide support only in English and Polish languages.

  1. You can find a lot of help browsing through the help section of the website. Dyno connection and basic configuration guides for different dyno types are available.
  2. Check your speed signals. Accelerate the dyno to the top speed you intend to use the dyno and make sure that the speed signal reading is stable. Dynamometer speed measurement
  3. Calibrate the load cell. If you care about accuracy, you should do a calibration with arm and weight with function “Calibrate load cell”. Otherwise, we can work on calibration based on nominal parameters done with “Calculate load cell gain” function. Load cell calibration tool
  4. Do a sanity check for your load cell calibration. Place a weight at the load cell and read the torque. Torque = g * weight * horizontal arm length from axis. For example: 9.8m/s² * 100kg * 0.5m = 490Nm
  5. Check if the absorber control is working.
    • Before connecting the eddy brake, check the wiring. Check if there is no short circuit. Check if the circuit is not open.
    • If using BD3 check if when powered you have voltage on the capacitor. Often with 1 phase connection case, the second neutral connection is forgotten.
    • From BD3 tool, run the “Test output” function. You should hear a quiet noise from the eddy brake for a short time after the click.
    • When using analog output, you can easily force some signal by raising the “Min output voltage” parameter.
    • When using PWM output, you can do the same by raising “Min duty cycle”.
    • PWM output in DC1 uses low side signal. It connects the output to ground when active. When interfacing with some other systems, they may require high level active signal. You should make a signal inverter circuit to create a safe interface.
  6. Get a vehicle for dyno PID tuning. Naturally aspirated engine with manual gearbox is preferred.
    • Automatic gearbox may cause problems by shifting when we don’t want it to.
    • Turbo engines don’t have a stable power output, which makes precise inertia calibration with double ramp method harder or impossible.
  7. Drive the car on the dyno.
    • Check if nothing falls apart and the vehicle is strapped in safely.
    • Check if the car electronics like traction control, etc. doesn’t misbehave.
  8. Make sure you have good vehicle cooling available on the dyno. The tuning takes around 2 hours of driving under partial and full load. Working without an external cooling fan won’t be efficient, as we would need to take breaks for the vehicle to cool down.
  9. Get a good internet connection to the dyno controller. Slow or laggy connection can cause the tuning to take even twice the time. This wastes my time, your time and the fuel in the car.
    • Connect the controller to your local network with Ethernet cable (you may need to change the IP configuration from manual to automatic in the controller). Even good Wi-Fi connection adds additional lag. Poor Wi-Fi signal is even worse.
    • If possible, use the cable connection (Ethernet, fiber) all the way to the internet. Wireless connection with your provider adds lag and instability, even if file download speed test gives good results.
    • The worst possible combination is sharing Wi-Fi from your mobile phone, with both the mobile network and Wi-Fi having poor signal level. In these conditions, after I click something, the interface responds after few seconds and the charts are often not refreshed on my side.

This is how a laggy internet connection looks on my side: